Braised Beef Short Ribs from Lucques

Los Angeles was once home to a culinary gem named Lucques, a creation by the renowned chef Suzanne Goin.

Celebrated not only in Los Angeles but across the culinary world, Lucques was a go-to spot for special occasions, from birthdays to Valentine’s Day and even our wedding lunch.

Although Lucques sadly closed its doors in 2020, the legacy lives on through Suzanne Goin’s cookbook, Sunday Suppers at Lucques.

Among the many masterpieces from Lucques, one dish stands out—the short ribs. In Goin’s own words, “Every chef has a love-hate dish, the dish that made it into the first review, the one customers call ahead for, the dish, therefore, the chef will never be able to take off the menu. Short ribs are mine.”

And for good reason.

Just before the pandemic hit in the spring of 2020, Lucques had already announced its closure. Not due to the pandemic, but because Suzanne Goin felt it was time to close that chapter and explore new projects.

Despite having planned to dine there one last time, the restaurant closed even earlier than anticipated due to the unforeseen challenges posed by the pandemic.

Stupid Covid.

As Lucques holds a special place in my heart, learning to recreate its iconic short ribs became a mission.

Adapting the original recipe, designed for six servings, to suit the needs of two proved to be a challenging feat.

After numerous attempts and a few failures, I finally cracked the code.

While it may never compare to the experience of sitting in Lucques and savoring those delectable short ribs, mastering the recipe at home has become the next best thing.

It's a tribute to the flavors that defined celebrations and milestones, encapsulating the essence of Lucques in every bite.

In the face of closure and unforeseen challenges, the legacy of Lucques lives on through the cherished recipes that once graced its tables.

Suzanne Goin's short ribs, a love-hate dish for the chef, have found a new home in kitchens like mine, offering a taste of the extraordinary, even in the ordinary setting of home dining.

As we navigate the changes that life brings, these recipes become more than just culinary creations—they become a link to the past, a celebration of memories, and a testament to the resilience of flavors that withstand the test of time.

Yield: 2

Print

With ImageWithout Image

Braised Beef Short Ribs with Potato Purée, Swiss Chard, and Horseradish Cream

Ingredients

Beef Short Ribs

• 2 beef short ribs, 14 to 16 ounces each (ask for 3 bone center-cut)
• 1 tablespoon thyme leaves, and 2 whole sprigs thyme
• 1 tablespoon freshly cracked black pepper
• 12 small pearl onions
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup diced onion
• 1 tablespoon diced carrot
• 1 tablespoon diced celery
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
• 1/2 cup port
• 1 cup hearty red wine
• 2 cups beef or veal stock
• 2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
• 1 bunch Swiss chard, cleaned, center ribs removed
• Potato purée (recipe follows)
• Horseradish cream (recipe follows)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Potato Purée

• 1/2 pound russet potatoes
• 1/2 pound Yukon Gold potatoes
• 6 tablespoons heavy cream
• 6 tablespoons whole milk
• 3/4 stick unsalted butter, cut into chunks
• Kosher salt

Horseradish Cream:

• 1/4 cup crème fraîche
• 1/2 tablespoon prepared horseradish
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

Short Ribs and Swiss Chard

1. Season the short ribs with 1 1/2 teaspoons thyme and the cracked black pepper. Use your hands to coat the meat well. Cover, and refrigerate overnight.
2. Take the short ribs out of the refrigerator an hour before cooking, to come to room temperature. After 30 minutes, season them generously on all sides with salt.
3. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
4. Toss the pearl onions with 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon thyme, 3/8 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Spread them on a baking sheet and roast them about 15 minutes until tender. When they have cooled, slip off the skins with your fingers and set aside. Turn the oven down to 325°F.
5. When it’s time to cook the short ribs, heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 3 minutes. Pour in 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil and wait a minute or two until the pan is very hot and almost smoking. Place the short ribs in the pan and sear until they are nicely browned on all three meaty sides. Depending on the size of your pan, you might have to sear the meat in batches. Do not crowd the meat; it will take at least 15 minutes. When the ribs are nicely browned, transfer them to a braising pan. They should lie flat, bones standing up, in one layer.
6. Turn the heat down to medium, and add the onion, carrot, celery, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf. Stir with a wooden spoon, scraping up all the crusty bits in the pan. Cook 6 to 8 minutes until the vegetables just begin to caramelize. Add the balsamic vinegar, port, and red wine. Turn the heat up to high, and reduce the liquid by half.
7. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Pour the liquid over the short ribs, scraping any vegetables that have fallen on the ribs back into the liquid. The stock mixture should almost cover the ribs. Tuck the parsley sprigs in and around the meat. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and a tight-fitting lid if you have one. Braise in the oven for about 3 hours.
8. To check the meat for doneness, remove the lid and foil, being careful of the escaping steam, and pierce a short rib with a paring knife. When the meat is done, it will yield easily to a knife. Taste a piece if you are not sure.
9. Let the ribs rest 10 minutes in their juices, and then transfer them to a baking sheet.
10. Turn the oven up to 400°F.
11. Place the short ribs in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes to brown.
12. Strain the broth into a saucepan, pressing down on the vegetables with a ladle to extract all the juices. Skim the fat from the sauce and, if the broth seems thin, reduce it over medium-high heat to thicken slightly. Taste for seasoning.
13. Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Tear the Swiss chard into large pieces. Add 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil to the pan and stir in the cooked pearl onions. Add half the Swiss chard, and cook a minute or two, stirring the greens in the oil to help them wilt. Add a splash of water and the second half of the greens. Season with a heaping 1/8 teaspoon salt and a pinch of ground black pepper. Cook for a few more minutes, stirring frequently, until the greens are tender.
14. Place the Swiss chard on a large warm platter, and arrange the short ribs on top. Spoon lots of braising juices over the ribs. Serve the hot potato purée and horseradish cream on the side.

Potato Purée:

1. Place the potatoes, whole and unpeeled, in a large saucepot. Add 1 tablespoon salt and fill the pot with cold water. Bring the potatoes to a boil over high heat, turn down the heat to low, and simmer about 45 minutes until tender. One type of potato may be done before the other, so check doneness and remove one variety first if necessary.
2. When the potatoes are cooked through, strain them, and set them aside to cool for 10 minutes or so. Heat the cream and milk together in a small saucepan, then turn off the heat. When the potatoes have cooled, peel them and pass them through a food mill or potato ricer. Put the riced potatoes in a heavy-bottomed pan. Heat them over medium heat a few minutes, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon, to dry them out a little. Add the butter slowly, stirring constantly. Season with 1 1/4 teaspoons salt.
3. When all the butter has been incorporated, slowly stir in the warm cream mixture until you have a smooth purée. Taste for seasoning. Pass the purée through a fine-mesh tamis twice if you like.

Horseradish Cream:

1. Combine the crème fraîche and horseradish in a small bowl. Season with 1/8 teaspoon salt and pepper. Taste for balance and seasoning.

Notes

Short ribs, like most braised dishes, taste even better the next day. Remember you will need to marinate them a day before braising.

Did you make this recipe?

Tag @duo_delish on instagram and hashtag it#tablefortwo